December 13th-28th, 2008
One 2-Week Session
 
 






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KWANI?Kenya's Leading Literary Magazine

 
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FAQ

What kind of weather can one expect to find in Nairobi and on Lamu Island (the coast) in December?

The Equator runs through the middle of Kenya —both Lamu Island and Nairobi are within two degrees of this line. That being said, Nairobi is significantly cooler than Lamu in December--Nairobi is at an altitude of about 5,500 feet above sea level. During the day, Nairobi will be sunny and warm: mid 70s °F; but at night, things cool down, so don’t forget a sweater or light jacket: high 50s to low/mid 60s°F. Lamu Island and the coast are much warmer, with day temperatures in the mid 80s °F, and nighttime only a bit cooler. Also, with Lamu’s proximity to the equator, the sun can be fierce, such that sun block is a real must.

There will be occasional rain in both locations; though these storms are often short and can be avoided by slipping into a shop or under an awning for their duration, it’s still a good idea to bring an umbrella or light rain jacket.

What language do they speak in Kenya ?

The majority of Kenyans are trilingual, speaking Swahili, English, and at least one of 50+ tribal languages (yes, Americans, feel shame). In Nairobi and on Lamu, it’s not very likely you’ll encounter anyone who doesn’t speak English. Almost all menus, signs, schedules, etc. are printed in English. Of course this isn’t an excuse to not attempt to pick up some Swahili—indeed, that minimal sign of respect for the people in the country we’re visitors in is always appreciated.

How much money should I expect to spend? Do I bring cash or traveller's cheques?

ATMs are readily available throughout Nairobi , and most charge a minimal processing fee—similar to ATM fees in the States. These bank machines are the easiest, most convenient way of getting cash while in Kenya . Travelers checks—in U.S. dollars—can be changed at any number of currency exchanges in Nairobi . And U.S. dollars—cash—are very easily changed throughout the country. Although we recommend using an ATM as your primary source of obtaining money while in Kenya , it’s always a good idea to bring along some dollars in case of a lost wallet or purse.

Please note that while in Nairobi there is 24 hour access to ATMs, Lamu is a completely different story. There is only one bank on the island, and their actual hours of operation don’t always match what’s posted on the door. When open, this bank will happily exchange U.S. dollars, and they also offer credit card cash advances, but that service comes with a sizeable processing fee. Best to plan to bring at least some cash (probably U.S. dollars and Kenyan shillings) when we go to Lamu.

Credit cards can be used in many of the upscale establishments, and their popularity is growing. Although there is a city-wide switch taking place in Nairobi —a changeover from the press-and-slide credit card operations to the individual dial-up transactions—the process is taking longer than one might expect. With that in mind, don’t plan to use credit cards with the same kind of frequency we might use them in the U.S.

As far as what you’ll spend, there are ways to truly stretch a budget, or you can really splurge. The U.S. dollar converts to approximately eighty Kenyan shillings. Most meals, for instance, run between KSh 300-600 (US $4-$8), not including drinks. A soft drink, coffee, or Tusker beer in a bar or restaurant will range from KSh 80-150 (US $1-$2). Western-style grocery stores, like the large chain Uchumi, are present throughout the city and have a large selection of products at very reasonable prices. So, budgeting around $25 a day ought to be more than plenty for your time in Kenya, though one might certainly get by on less.

What if I want to take a safari? How do I arrange that? Will it mean I miss part of the program?

We strongly encourage all participants to take a safari while in Kenya —they are unforgettable, spectacular adventures. One might take a safari either directly before or directly after our program, and although SLS doesn't have anything to do with safaris directly, we are comfortable suggesting the services of a Nairobi-based travel agent whom we've used for many years--we can attest to his reliablity and trustworthiness.

Once participants are accepted into the program, we’ll be putting you in touch with the aforementioned agent who will be able to arrange a variety of trips at special SLS discounted prices. These trips can range from $80-$300 a day, depending on a number of factors, i.e. swimming pool or outdoor showers, tents or five-star suites, one national park or three, etc.

It's worth mentioning that some participants in the past wish they'd gone with a lodge safari rather than the deluxe camping option. For some the camping was a bit "rougher" than they'd anticipted, the lodge much nicer than they'd expected, and the difference in price, in the end, wouldn't have mattered. But, that said, some participants were quite happy with the price of camping, with what they got camping,--were "glad to have someone cooking my food, to have a mattress. Camping is supposed to be roughing it."

What about food?

Nairobi is a cosmopolitan city with varied fare to fulfill just about any gastronomical whim. To list a few types of restaurants: Kenyan nyama choma (barbequed meat), Swahili (coastal influences), Indian, Ethiopian, Chinese, Italian, French, Japanese, Irish, Thai, pizza shops, fried chicken depots, fast food burger joints, sandwich shops, upscale coffee and pastry see-and-be-seen establishments, Carnivore (where one, for a flat fee, gorges on various game meat—pork, beef, or if you’re up for it, hartebeest, ostrich, crocodile, zebra, etc.—until their stomachs can take no more), and there’s even a Hooters (yes: chicken wings; no: tank tops and short-shorts). In summation, one eats extremely well in Nairobi .

On Lamu the selection isn’t as great, but the food is fantastic. Think fish, lobster, and shrimp plucked straight from the ocean and placed almost directly on your plate. Think fruit smoothies that are made of succulent, fresh fruit just hours off the branch. Think open-air, ocean-side or rooftop restaurants three meals a day. There are also two Western-style restaurants on Lamu where one might get a dish of pasta or a burger if they’ve got the craving.

Vegetarians will have a bit of work cut out for them, but each year there are several vegetarian participants who navigate the mostly-carnivorous scene with relative ease. Retaining a bit of humor is the best advice we can give—that, and rest assured that there is plenty of vegetarian cuisine to be found in Kenya .

Is the water in Kenya safe to drink?

We suggest that you do not drink the tap water in Kenya . Bottled water is readily available throughout the country. To be on the safe side, it’s better to use bottled water for your daily routines, from brushing your teeth to washing fresh fruit (which, incidentally, is abundant and delicious),

Do I need a visa to visit Kenya , and how does it work?

A visa is required to travel to Kenya , but this may be purchased on arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi . Visas are good for three months from the date of entry and cost $50 US (cash). Please be sure to check that your passport is valid for the duration of your stay as you may run into serious complications if it expires while in Kenya .

Mosquitos? Do I need to take Malaria pills?

SLS-Kenya participants have never had a problem with Malaria—further, in past experiences, mosquitoes haven’t been much of a nuisance at all.

However, right now the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services suggests that those visiting outside Nairobi and its immediate environs are at risk of getting Malaria. That means that for all other travel in Kenya , including travel to Lamu Island (our second destination), the U.S.D.H.H.S. recommends Malaria prophylactics. For more information, consult your physician or follow the following link: http://www.cdc.gov/travel/regionalmalaria/eafrica.htm

In addition to Malaria prophylactics, you’ll probably want to bring a strong insect repellent—more along the lines of something with a high DEET content rather than the more pleasantly scented, though less effective Avon Skin-So-Soft.

What about other health concerns? Do I need to get shots?

Simple answer: Yes, probably so. You should plan a visit to a travel vaccination center at least 4-6 weeks prior to departure; and please note that wintertime is the busy season, so plan ahead! You’ll need Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B shots, Typhoid, Measles, Polio, etc. (you may already be up to date on many or all of these, but it’s best to check). As of this time, yellow fever vaccinations are not required for trips to Kenya . For the most up-to-date information regarding medical precautions and vaccinations, please visit the U.S. ’s Center for Disease Control and Prevention’s East African webpage at: http://www.cdc.gov/travel/eafrica.htm

Should I bring my laptop; how safe will it be?

SLS-Kenya is a relatively short program; one fully-packed week in Nairobi , and one week with ample time to write on Lamu Island . You’ll have to decide for yourself whether or not it’s worth lugging your computer to Kenya . You may indeed be quite glad it’s with you—a priceless tool; or, you may find that your five senses are so completely overwhelmed and stimulated that you don’t require a computer in order to record your thoughts.

As far as safety, like in any large city, there are certain precautions participants should take to ensure their belongings are safe. Everyone who arranges housing through the SLS agent will be staying in entirely secure accommodations. We have never had any incidents of theft. Of course flaunting wealth might peg you a target—as indeed, owning a laptop computer isn’t as common in Kenya as it is in the States—so being discreet about such things is the best precaution.

How safe is Kenya ?

SLS participants have never felt threatened or been robbed in all the years we’ve been going to Kenya . Nairobi , of course, is a major metropolitan center though, with a population of over 2.5 million. As one might expect in a city of this size, crime does certainly exist. Yet, where the workshops and lectures take place, and where participants will stay, are all in or very close to the city center or Westlands area of Nairobi—both bustling, happening, lively, and extremely safe areas. Further, in order to ease any worries or apprehensions, SLS has organized nightly activities in the absolute safest areas of the city; and to ensure uncompromised peace of mind, we’ve arranged transportation to and from these events for the duration of our time in Nairobi .

Lamu Island —where we’ll spend the second half of the program—is very different than Nairobi ; it is undoubtedly the safest place is Kenya , perhaps on the continent—nay, one of the most peaceful places on the planet. Safety simply isn’t an issue while on Lamu: yet another reason why we at SLS are so completely enchanted with this beautiful 14 th Century stone town.

What about the travel warning? What does that mean?

The U.S. Department of State continues to post a travel warning for Americans visiting Kenya . SLS participants have never experienced anything that would corroborate the fears this warning implies. We will be spending our time in the safest areas of Nairobi , and while on Lamu, we’ll be in what we consider to be the safest place in Kenya . We do, however, feel it’s important that SLS participants familiarize themselves with the Department of State’s official position; the following is a link to this page: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_923.html. In addition, we encourage participants to surf the Department of State’s website in order to familiarize themselves with other issues and warnings the U.S. government has concerning international travel. http://travel.state.gov/

Still more questions?

Feel free to email with questions or particular concerns: kenya@sumlitsem.org

Housing & Facilities | Costs & Deadlines | Application Info | FAQ | Important Dates | Travel & Visa Matters | Online Payments